Why did my well pump stop working?

Most of the time it's an electrical component — a tripped breaker, failed capacitor, or worn-out pressure switch. Less commonly, the pump motor itself has burned out. We test everything systematically so you know exactly what needs fixing.

Is it safe to reset the breaker myself?

You can try resetting it once. If the breaker holds and the pump starts working again, you're fine — it was likely a power surge. But if it trips again immediately, do not keep resetting it. That indicates a short circuit or ground fault that needs professional diagnosis.

How do I know if my pump motor is burned out?

You usually can't tell from inside the house. A burned motor will show specific electrical readings (like low resistance to ground) that we test for with specialized equipment. If the motor is gone, we'll confirm it and give you replacement options before proceeding.

Troubleshooting

Well Pump Not Turning On? Here's What to Do

You need water and the pump isn't responding — no sound, no pressure change, nothing. The problem is almost always electrical, and here's how we track it down.

Call (541) 791-4202

Oregon Licensed Well Pump Contractor

What's Happening

When a well pump won't turn on at all, the issue is electrical in the vast majority of cases. Your submersible pump sits hundreds of feet underground, powered by a dedicated circuit that runs through a pressure switch and, on many systems, a control box. A failure at any point in that chain — from the breaker panel to the pump motor itself — will prevent the pump from starting.

The simplest cause is a tripped circuit breaker. This can happen after a power surge or lightning strike, which we see regularly during Oregon's storm seasons. If resetting the breaker once doesn't fix it — or if it trips again immediately — there's likely a deeper issue: a failed start capacitor, corroded wiring, a bad pressure switch, or a burned-out pump motor.

On 3-wire pump systems (common in deeper wells around the Willamette Valley and Oregon Coast), the control box mounted near the pressure tank contains the capacitors and relay that start the motor. These components wear out over time and are a common failure point. The good news is that control box repairs are straightforward and much less expensive than pulling and replacing the pump.

Signs You Might Have This Problem

Absolutely no water when you turn on any faucet
No sound or vibration from the well — the pump isn't engaging
The circuit breaker for the pump keeps tripping
The pressure gauge reads zero and doesn't climb
Lights or electronics flickered before the pump stopped (indicates a power event)

What We Do To Fix It

We start at the breaker panel and work our way to the pump — testing voltage at every point in the circuit. We check the pressure switch contacts, test the control box capacitors and relay, and inspect all wiring for corrosion or damage. If the motor itself has failed, we'll pull the pump and confirm it before quoting a replacement. You'll understand exactly what failed and why before we do any work.

Think this is your problem?

Call us — we diagnose before we quote. No guesswork, no surprises.

Same-day emergency service across Albany, the Mid-Willamette Valley, and the Central Oregon Coast.

Call (541) 791-4202

30+ years experience · Family-owned & operated

Where We Service This Issue

We diagnose and repair this problem across the Mid-Willamette Valley and Central Oregon Coast, including:

Mid-Willamette Valley

Albany Corvallis Dallas Jefferson Lebanon Millersburg Philomath Scio Stayton Tangent

Central Oregon Coast

Depoe Bay Lincoln City Newport Toledo Waldport Yachats

* Surrounding rural areas also served — contact us to confirm coverage.